Visitors

In preparation for the week-long visit of friends Anne and Dave from Nelson, we took the car into Perpignan to give it an oil-change. Thankfully the online-ordered oil filter had arrived in time, and we found our way to Carter-Cash (where that name comes from who knows) to buy a big bucket of oil. They have a great system where for a few extra Euros, you take your filter and oil around the back of the retail store and they will do the change for you. Most efficient and really good value.

Being in Perpignan we took the opportunity to get a few bits and pieces from Decathlon (sports gear) and Leroy Merlin (hardware), along with the normal muesli run from Auchan (the only non-sugared, non-chocolated muesli we've found).

All very satisfactory. We had wanted to get the car into good shape as we were heading to Girona on Wednesday to pick up our guests. Girona is under an hour away, and our GPS happily got us to the agreed pickup point. Very nice to have our first non-family guests with us. Many have threatened to come, but the time, distance and cost from New Zealand can be rather off-putting. Also this is the first year we have had a proper spare bedroom.

From Girona a simple run down to Palamos where we had booked an Airbnb place for two nights. A perfect spot, high up and directly overlooking the beach. The apartment was not available until late afternoon, so we headed straight out on foot to Platja D'Aro, a beach to the south. It's a lovely walk along the Costa Brava coast, up, down and across countless little beaches and bays. Pretty warm, as indeed the last couple of days in Ceret had been. Many bronze gorgeous bodies on the beaches, but one we all were stunned by. A middle-aged woman tanned to a colour that was pretty much indescribable. A dark coppery bronze, verging on black. Utterly appalling, none of us have ever seen anything like it, and don't wish to again.

Our AirBnB terrace at Palamos

Quite a hike into Platja D'Aro, and we were well ready for a good lunch. I managed to find the place we'd eaten at last year - a workers cafe a few streets into from the beach. Again a really good honest meal, costing the grand sum of 9 Euro, wine included. We took a few inland shortcuts on the way back so as not to prolong the time in the sun. Karen and I noticed that things look different from last year - only 6 months before. There is a lot of work going on - improvements to paving, roads, buildings and maintenance. We'd heard that Spain is coming out of recession, and what we saw would certainly point that way. Having eaten well at lunchtime, we only wanted some tapas for dinner, and found a little spot (Pont de Trabada) a few streets back into the old town. It is family-run by a very friendly woman, her tall husband with terrible teeth, and assorted children underfoot and popping in and out. The salty cuttlefish rings particularly were superb.

Thursday saw us up in sensible time, for a walk to the north, not so far or long this time. Out of Palamos, past the motor camp, down into Cala de la Fosca, past a ruined castle to Cala s'Alguer where we picnicked overlooking the gorgeous little fishing village opposite. Round Cala de la Castell to the Castell itself - an Iberian settlement from well BC. Lots of Spaniards out on the beach, including a huge group of young adults doing scuba and kayak training, perhaps a part of a school camp. Cala de la Fosca proved to be a good spot for a beer on the way back.

The cafe with the blue tasselled umbrellas was the obvious place to have a beer

Back to Palamos, another beer at our favourite seats near the port, then a few streets back into the town to the same little eatery for a very pleasant menu.

We'd suggested Dave and Anne see the Dali museum in Figueres, so we stopped there on our way back north. While they went round that we reluctantly (well, maybe not) forced down a coffee and looked around Figueres. Anne and Dave enjoyed the museum, but hadn't looked at the amazing outside of the building, so on our way out we attempted to go past it. Easier said than done. After a number of abortive loops, we finally gave it away and headed to France and our apartment. Always nice to be back home.